plants and gardens of Palermo - travel notes
During my last visit to Sicily, I visited Palermo, where I had the opportunity to study the numerous plantings and gardens that this multi-cultural city has to offer.
Palermo’s rich history and multiple influences from Western, Byzantine and Islamic cultures, make it a place that clearly stands out.
The exchange of ideas from these cultures has given rise to new concepts in the creation of spaces, structures and decorations, and is clearly reflected in city’s unique architecture and gardens.
the greenery of Palermo
palms
Strolling the streets of Palermo, one immediately notices that the most prominent plant features in the green scape of this city are palm trees.
Standing high above the crowns of surrounding trees, their straight trunks hold their round heads. Looking up we are amazed by their height, large spiky foliage, moving gently with the breeze, contrasting beautifully with the clear Sicilian blue sky. Simply poetry.
trees & shrubs
During my visit I was surprised to see how many fruits were decorating the branches of the numerous citrus trees growing in squares and public gardens. It is worth mentioning that it was the Arabs that introduced the many citrus trees to Sicily.
I was surprised to see that flowers from the current season appeared while fruit from the previous season is still on the tree.
One of the trees that is grown very successfully in the city’s urban planting is Cercis siliquastrum, Judas trees. This tree can be planted in sunny gardens and courtyards, where it can enjoy the warmth of the sunshine.
One of the plants that quickly brings an association with Sicillian warm climate is Bougainvillea. I encountered many of these tropical climbers in Palermo, framing the windows and balconies of numerous Palazzos. Their striking colours, often tones of pink, are so intense, they are almost obscene.
Arabic influence
The influence of Arabic culture in Palermo is clearly reflected in the way many of its gardens have been created.
In her ‘Garden Design’ book Sylvia Crowe said: ‘Islamic garden proceeds quietly from one lovely retreat to the next, making it impossible to say which is the culminating point’.
Studying a number of gardens, that were influenced by Arabic culture in Palermo, I could notice that they are made for quiet reflection. Also, there is no point to which we are directed, no peak moment or an ultimate goal. It is a rather slow and unprescribed exploration.
These gardens also highlight their love of the individual, especially reflected in the planting of a single fruit tree in a courtyard. The garden here is an enclosed paradise, designed for contemplation.
I was especially taken by the garden in San Giovanni degli Eremiti. Particularly the architecture of the inner courtyard, which was surrounded by beautifully designed arches, whose shadows projected onto the cobbled stone pathway added another dimension to the perception of this garden.
courtyards
Courtyards played a very important role in the construction of the many Palazzos, churches and monasteries, that the city of Palermo has.
Often hidden behind massive wooden gates, with a small door carved in them for the everyday access, they were real sanctuaries, providing much needed shelter and seclusion from the hustle and bustle of the city.
During my trip, I visited a number of courtyards, often with tiled floors, enclosed by walls and windows of surrounding buildings. These were often planted with plants, bringing much needed shade and protection from the scorching Sicilian sun.
Santa Caterina monastery has a beautiful, blue tiled courtyard. The courtyard, catching the intense afternoon sun, made it a perfect spot to grow a large number of sun loving plants.
Santa Caterina monastery, tiled courtyard
The most memorable impression that I had when visited, was the scent of the orange blossom, that decorated the branches of trees. It simply filled the air, almost like being in a perfume shop.
The scent of the blossom, the sound of water, from the centrally positioned fountain, the very blue and white ornamental tiles shimmering in the sun, the colours and textures of many plants growing in pots and decorative vases, together made a very profound impression on my memory. It is indeed a special place.
light
I would like to reflect a little bit on the light in Palermo and its kaleidoscopic qualities.
When I arrived, the weather was rather dark and gloomy. But the next day I was astounded to experience how quickly the mood of the city and the colours of its many buildings changed with the appearance of the sun.
Suddenly everything came to life, as almost popped out from its frames, and the sand-coloured facades of many buildings and churches started to glitter gold in the sunlight.
Everything became alive. The colours of the plants and many flowers were more pronounced, contrasting beautifully with the clear blue sky. Colours and textures were changing gradually, as the sunlight gained its strength and intensity.
Later on, when reading the biography of Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa, the author of ‘ The Leopard’, I came across his description of light in Palermo: ‘the magic of light, which in a city with so intense a sun as Palermo is concentrated or variegated according to the weather, even in narrow streets.’
conclusion
My visit to Palermo and the exploration of its many gardens and green spaces, made me think again about what really makes a garden. I was able to think and analyse what other elements apart from plants, build the experience and atmosphere in a garden.
I reminded myself that clearly it is not only the plants that make our gardens, but their combination with the sense of smell, the touch, the sounds, the colours and the intensity of light.
Palermo is a great place to visit to study plants, plantings and the gardens. Moreover, combination of Arab and Norman influences, makes this city unique and it reminds us that the fusion of different cultures, religions and ideas, is such a positive, which for centuries has shaped many civilisations and therefore should always be embraced, cherished and encouraged especially nowadays, when society becomes more and more polarised.